You’d never guess it from the smart interior, but Gars has been championing Chinese cuisine for over 25 years. In truth, the slick design features (polished bamboo floors & red leather walls) are relatively recent additions, as are pan-Asian intruders such as teriyaki salmon & Thai green curry. Gars' longevity is firmly rooted in the Cantonese classics, from standout fillet of sea bass steamed with ginger & spring onion to slow-roast char siu pork, with set menus offering a comprehensive snapshot of the kitchen's capabilities. Big round tables in the first-floor dining room get packed with raucous crowds at the weekends, so romantics may prefer the secluded booths in the adjoining room or the sedate charms of the intimate ground-floor dining area. Snappy service & a thoughtful, spice-friendly wine list add to the experience.