24 St Georges

Technically accomplished cooking at reasonable prices is the headline attraction at this smart neighbourhood restaurant deep in Kemp Town. Brighton boy Dean Heselden heads up the kitchen, producing ambitious modern European dishes characterised by bold flavours & pretty presentation. Towers, purées & 'textures' abound on a seasonally adjusted menu that could start with homemade Sussex blue cheese & walnut pasta, before moving on to duck confit with a roulade of duck liver mousse. To finish, the award-winning Earl Grey-infused rice pudding with rhubarb mousse & walnut ice cream is a must. Despite 24’s cheffy aspirations, it offers very fair value (mains weigh in at around £11), although the masculine interior of dark woods & high-backed leather chairs can feel oppressive. If the weather’s fine, try the terrace at the back of the restaurant for some light relief.