Gilt-edged mirrors, red velvet upholstery & extravagant flower arrangements lend a lavish feel to this romantic restaurant on the borders of Brighton & Hove. The luxurious theme extends to a seven-course seasonal tasting menu (£43 per head), where dishes such as smoked duck breast with confit leg & foie gras terrine or chilled blackberry & cardamom soup with yoghurt sorbet showcase the refined touch of chef Will Stanyer, who honed his skills with the Hotel du Vin group. A concise carte & set lunch menu (£16 for two courses) should satisfy those with smaller appetites, while the thoughtful wine list takes a whistle-stop tour of the world's grape-producing regions, ending with a third-growth Château Margaux. Excellent Sunday lunches & a decadent first-floor private dining room, dressed in Regency style, add to the restaurant's many charms.

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