Squirreled away in the sprawling Runnymede-on-Thames Hotel, this eatery scores with its views over Bell Weir & its unexpectedly captivating interiors. The rustically adorned open kitchen paints a Country Living picture that’s tipped towards city-smart by the white tiling, ochre leather banquettes, & shined parquet floors of the Conran-designed dining room. It’s a balance mirrored in simple, produce-led plates of say, pork terrine wrapped in Parma ham with a pickled walnut, River Exe mussels steamed in saffron & white wine, or a fat fillet of hake in mushroom cream sauce. Pricing is keen, with only a Casterbridge rib-eye passing the £15 mark. To conclude, nursery puds offer a daily crumble, treacle tart or chocolate pecan brownie in fudge sauce. Visit by day & an in-demand river terrace ensures bright tranquillity, while evening brings a more intimate buzz.