Pundits of the Norwich restaurant scene may recognise this address as the one-time home of local legend Adlard’s. Since 2010, however, it has been in the capable hands of Roger Hickman (David Adlard’s former head chef), who has given the place a new lease of life following his return to the city. The intimate dining room still feels comfortingly familiar with its air of low-key elegance and personable civility, but the food has a new-found clarity and impetus. Sharply defined seasonal favours are the key to dishes such as crab cannelloni with tomato, pickled cucumber and avocado purée, roast lemon sole with sardines, white beans and parsley oil or spring lamb with sweetbreads, aubergine and roast garlic purée. Set lunches are an excellent deal at £18/22 for two/three courses, and the wine list is an exemplary collection of carefully chosen bottles.