The name may suggest a dyed-in-the-wool wine bar, & there’s certainly much for oenpohiles to enjoy here – whether serious drinking or a quick & easy tipple is required. In Vino Veritas also cuts it as an animated neighbourhood bistro dealing in French-accented dishes overlaid with a fair smattering of British seasonal ingredients. The regular menu (plus a slate of blackboard specials) moves from gravlax & salmon tartare or rabbit & pistachio terrine with green apple chutney to chocolate & orange pot or caramelised pear tarte Tatin, via rib-eye with frites, free-range chicken Gaston Gerard with creamy mash & caramelised baby onions or pan-fried duck breast with parsnips, garlic & oyster mushroom purée, finished with a carrot & apricot sauce. A tapas menu is also on hand for those who simply want something to nibble with their chosen glass.
This buzzy Brighton
eatery is not exactly innovative, but it’s a brilliant example of how to put together a good brasserie list. Thirty wines by the glass, more than 25 Champagne houses, and a terrific selection of
wines from £25-£40. The list focuses (as you might expect) on France, but every country is sub-divided by region.
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