This stylish boutique country-house is secreted away in more than five acres of grounds & delivers a laid-back experience. Against a backdrop of bright modern artwork the restaurant is as smartly attired as its staff. Here chef-patron James Coward takes an appropriately polished & progressive take on the classical French theme. Complex, well-dressed dishes are his forte, conjured from quality local & seasonal ingredients, & offered on a variety of menu options. Seared wild sea bass fillet served with homemade squid-ink pasta, a fricassée of crayfish tails & saffron sauce, or perhaps a duo of venison (wild loin rolled in sage & venison & sweet-chilli sausage) teamed with Parisienne potatoes, swede purée & juniper & blackcurrant sauce are delivered with all the trappings: canapés, some between-course action & an extensive wine cellar. Desserts continue in classic mode; perhaps hot orange & rosemary soufflé with sanguine orange sorbet.