There was a gap in the market before Sosban’s arrival in Llanelli, & this gorgeously sleek & spacious restaurant has stepped into the breach thanks to chef Sian Rees & an experienced front-of-house team led by her partner Ian Wood (fresh from London big hitters Galvin Bistrot de Luxe & the Boundary respectively). Not surprisingly the kitchen majors in indulgent, Gallic-inspired cooking, typified by the likes of buttery crab lasagne or crisp-skinned, slow-cooked belly pork with braised cabbage & a full-flavoured Madeira sauce. Other memorable efforts have included Maldon rock oysters served Charentaise-style with warm spicy sausage, & a dish of cod with a wholesome coco bean & bacon broth; it’s also worth lingering for the textbook lemon tart & rich chocolate mousse sweetened with pistachio ice cream. This newcomer deserves success on a scale as grand as the industrial dockside building that houses it.
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