Jack in the Green

A traditional roadside inn that’s been impressively remodelled with bags of style & panache, the ‘Jack’ is a perennial favourite hereabouts. The kitchen’s philosophy is equally admirable – accomplished, punchy modern cooking based on the very best seasonal produce from Devon’s abundant larder. There could be rack & braised shoulder of Whimple lamb partnered by tomato fondue & a courgette & herb salad, while the coast might provide scallops & lemon sole – perhaps pepped up with blood orange & pink grapefruit, pine nuts & brown butter. Desserts range from ever-popular sticky toffee pudding to summery elderflower pannacotta with gooseberries & sorrel ice cream. Meanwhile, the menu in the trad-meets-modern bar flies the flag for pub grub – anything from Cumberland sausages with bubble & squeak to beer-battered fish & chips.