Built as a ship’s chandlery in the 19th century, this restaurant’s stripped-back decorative style takes full advantage of its original features, while adding homely touches in the shape of squashy sofas & subtle lighting. Classic European cooking underpins the menus, & the carte might offer a tian of lobster & asparagus ahead of pan-fried sea trout fillet with crushed Jersey Royals, seaweed & summer vegetable broth. Meaty Welsh produce also gets a good outing, as in a plate of locally cured charcuterie followed by fillet of Usk beef & slow-cooked shin with buttered summer greens & a wholegrain mustard croquette. Grills cater for those with simpler tastes, while dishes such as chicken Caesar salad or sausages with mash & gravy are perfect lunch fillers. Desserts are mainly classics along the lines of summer pudding with clotted cream or crème brûlée with shortbread.