This northern outpost of Jamie O’s informal, family-friendly chain jauntily embraces the celeb-chef’s passion for all things Italian. Set in a former city-centre bank, its modern makeover was inspired by a magnificent ornate ceiling on the ground floor & upstairs by large windows that keep things light & bright. The mood is typically cheery & welcoming, while the furnishings & displays of produce are as colourful as the wide-ranging menu. Simple, quickly prepared, rustic dishes are the brand’s style, perhaps ‘planks’ loaded with cured meats & antipasti, homemade pasta ranging from spaghetti bolognese to cockles linguine, even a burger Italiano; you can also get Tuscan wild boar sausages & a Ligurian fish stew. Desserts are in the tiramisu mould, wines are an all-Italian bunch, & there are no evening bookings – so expect to queue or wait in the bar.
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