An ornate late-Victorian saloon, the Guildford Arms dates to 1898. Set just back from the east end of Princes Street, no distance from Waverley Station, it couldn’t be more central. Through its revolving doors you find a riot of decoration, from the geometric, leaf-pattern ceiling to elaborate cornicing and thistle wallpaper. Upstairs there is a small gallery restaurant overlooking the bar, with commendable pub grub, but the main attraction here – history excepted – is the real ale. There are 10 on tap from all over Scotland, from the likes of the Orkney Brewery in the north to the newcomer Scottish Borders Brewery near Jedburgh in the south – also from the deep south in the shape of Marston’s in Burton-upon-Trent perhaps. Whisky drinkers are well served, too, with three-dozen single malts on offer. One caveat: its location and reputation as an emblematic Edinburgh pub can draw quite a crowd at peak times.