Café Royal

A favourite of guidebooks and of old locals, and an icon of the Edinburgh pub scene, the current Café Royal dates to 1863 although it did have a nearby predecessor. Located off the east end of Princes Street, the premises incorporate a bar and adjacent restaurant – both with remarkable Victorian design. In the bar, first-time visitors are struck by the Doulton ceramic murals of celebrated inventors, the period elegance of the space and the feeling that Palmerston may still be Prime Minister. Some drinkers perch on stools at the bar itself, or by the far wall; others are lucky enough to requisition one of the leather booths under the windows. The menu is pretty elevated, with a seafood platter, mussels and oysters alongside the usual pub grub dishes. Real ale is confined to four choices – from breweries like Caledonian and Kelburn – and although the Café Royal isn’t a whisky specialist, it has all the big-selling single malts.