For a great buzz at the Piccadilly end of town, the Grill on New York Street is worth keeping in mind. Those who knew it in its previous life as Spanish restaurant Grado will recognise the bones of the dining room & the majority of the capable front-of-house team, although Manhattan scenes now predominate. The emphasis is on simple, laid-back luxury, with starters like garlic prawns, baked Camembert & oysters leading into lobster or steak with chips. Wagyu comes as a fillet steak (£55) or burger (£18.25), & there’s a strong enough selection of red wines to match with both. Desserts include rum baba & bread-&-butter pudding, but if you’ve got room left, you’re doing it wrong.