Cavernous & gloriously flash, Gaucho’s Manchester outpost is a huge ex-chapel that’s now a shrine to the conspicuous consumption of Argentinean meat & more besides. All Gaucho’s hallmarks are here amid the black-&-white cowhide; ceviches & empanadas to start, staff ferrying meat boards around the floor to demonstrate the difference between ancho & lomo, & punchy, garlicky marinades. Pudding might be dulce de leche flan or a sampler plate; it’s all done extremely well, but comes at a price. Drinkers could get lost for days in the endlessly fascinating all-Argentinean wine list.
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