North Manchester’s bright spark may be named after an ecclesiastical store cupboard, but there’s nothing reverential about the food on offer in this little cottage off Prestwich’s main drag. TV chef Mary-Ellen McTague learned her trade with Heston Blumenthal, and there are echoes of the grand master in her fondness for historical British ‘receipts’, curious ingredients and foraged gleanings. The result is a choice of precisely balanced tasting menus full of unexpected accents and contrast – think game sausage with turnips and English truffle, roast Dover sole with oyster pudding, sea beet and Lapsang Souchong tea or slow-roast kid with cauliflower, yoghurt and kale. Dessert might be ratafia pudding, beetroot and chocolate cakes or a ‘quire of paper’ (actually a nutmeg-scented stack of paper-thin pancakes, with quince and milk ice). Service is roundly charming, although it can sometimes struggle to keep up.