North Manchester’s little gem is owned & run by Mary-Ellen McTague & husband Laurence Tottingham, who have both worked for Heston Blumenthal. Housed in a little cottage off Prestwich’s main drag, it serves seasonal British food, precisely cooked & plated, in a small dining room with an open kitchen pass at the back. An interest in historical dishes & foraged ingredients is displayed in dishes such as wild-rabbit terrine with rabbit consommé, rowan jelly & liver parfait, followed by slow-cooked pork with apple sauce, birch syrup & the Lancashire favourite of black peas & vinegar. Dessert might be ‘quire of paper’, a nutmeg-scented stack of paper-thin pancakes, with quince & milk ice. The wine list has plenty under £30, & service is roundly charming.