The New Inn at Backwell

A thorough refurbishment has transformed this old pub in the heart of a village not far from Bristol, & the result is a comfortable & pleasantly decorated backdrop for Nathan Muir’s sharply focused modern cooking. He has the knack of seeking out prime raw materials (mostly from local suppliers) for a menu of carefully selected dishes that are a cut-above for a country pub – say starters of rabbit terrine or crab & salt fish brandade with a poached egg & spiced oil. Main courses can be as traditional as Ashdale beef fillet with triple-cooked chips, but there’s also whiting with braised white beans, chorizo & sauce verte. Make sure to leave room for a pud – perhaps apple, pear & Champagne trifle or chocolate pavé with beetroot parfait.