Named after chef Steve Love & his wife Claire, who looks after front-of-house, Loves is an ambitious sequel to their award-winning venue in Leamington Spa. The smart monochrome dining room is run by ultra-efficient staff, who serve up a succession of beautifully crafted dishes bursting with genuine culinary flair. Steve’s cooking is complex & full of labour-intensive components – witness Loch Duart salmon enlivened with creamy chive butter sauce, caviar & a moreish smoked eel croquette or perfectly timed Gloucester Old Spot pork belly alongside crisp nuggets of pig’s tail, rich crépinette & black pudding crumble. Claire’s passion is wine & she is happy to make recommendations from her top-notch list. While the food & drink can’t be faulted, Loves is let down by its out-of-the-way location & rather soulless new-build canalside setting, a lengthy walk from the bustling scene around Brindleyplace.