The oddly shaped dining room, awkward layout & close-packed tables can be challenging, but the low-key vibe & Tom Van Zeller’s food more than make amends at this contemporary Harrogate restaurant. Intricacy is a given, with the kitchen using all the tricks of modern cheffery in its delicious detailing – mallard is served with celeriac rémoulade, quince, cep powder, Cox apple & pea shoots, while sea bass & sauté Jerusalem artichokes are paired with spinach, roasted red pepper & squid ink purée. Dazzling desserts also pull some novel ideas out of the bag, perhaps serving chocolate tart & a warm brownie with juniper honeycomb, popcorn ice cream & blood orange pannacotta. Some find the prices hard to swallow, but bargain lunches are eminently digestible. David Moore (owner of London big hitter Pied à Terre) is the restaurant’s backer.