The Crown sets out its stall with a fiercely seasonal menu, but achieves a genuine balance between food & drink thanks to real ales, a fairly priced wine list & an infectious atmosphere in the tiny bar. On the food front, chef & co-owner Chris Slaughter loves big, earthy flavours, whether in a sophisticated plate of squid with autumn leaves & a tangy green sauce or meltingly tender loin of lamb with roasted scrag end & pea purée. Elsewhere, devilled duck livers with rainbow chard, deeply comforting braised oxtail & mash, & a homely steamed ginger pudding are just some of the highlights served in the plainly decorated, cream-walled dining room. Attentive, knowledgeable service does much to enhance the new persona of this formerly run-down rural boozer.
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