Durability and consistency count for a great deal, which may explain the popularity of the well-established and expanding San Carlo chain. Pitched in the heart of Leeds’ smart legal and business quarter, this outpost promises sleek, stylish good looks, a cheery, welcoming vibe and a bright, wide-ranging menu peppered with trattoria classics such as pizza margherita, lasagne and escalopes of veal in a creamy mustard sauce laced with brandy. Alternatively, dig deeper for the likes of pappardelle with smoked duck and porcini mushrooms, tagliolini with lobster or calf's liver with onions, polenta and Madeira jus, plus chocolate-coated, zabaglione-flavoured ice cream for dessert. Refreshingly, San Carlo sticks with what it knows – and does it very well.

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