The team behind Mayfair’s Only Running Footman have brought a touch of class to this well-heeled Candover Valley local overlooking the village church. Once through the door, take note of the Purefoy’s newly minted gastropub credentials – tasteful remodelling, an eye-catching menu & a serious wine list. The kitchen presses all the right buttons when it comes to local sourcing & seasonality, proving its worth with the likes of peppered venison haunch served with bubble & squeak, red cabbage & roasting juices, or perhaps faggots with mash & onion gravy. Classics such as fish stew or beer-battered haddock broaden the appeal, & a separate roll call of rare-breed steaks winks at deeper wallets. There’s also a Spanish surprise in the shape of a colourful medley of tapas-style dishes including Ibérico picante chorizo, Catalan tomato bread & boquerones. By contrast, the terrace & garden are quintessentially English.