Overlooking the church in a well-heeled village, the redbrick Purefoy Arms with its terrace and garden looks like your archetypal country hostelry. However, Marie Louise and Andres Alemany have brought a touch of Spanish class to this Candover Valley local. Once through the door, you’ll find pleasantly smartened-up interiors, while the kitchen presses all the right buttons when it comes to local sourcing and seasonality – as in poached chicken with Puy lentils, chervil roots and Nutley mushrooms. Classics such as a Dexter beef burger or beer-battered haddock broaden the appeal, and Black Angus rib (for two) winks at deeper wallets. Head back to Spain for desserts of crema catalana or churros con chocolate. By contrast, good-value set lunches are quintessentially English – think onion and beet soup with Cheddar toast followed by cottage pie with buttered greens.