It isn’t exactly a cutting-edge dining room, but with its warm oak panelling and beautifully dressed tables, La Bécasse provides comfort and intimacy – as well as looking the part for serious business. It continues to purvey the finer things in life with the utmost professionalism, at the same time maintaining Ludlow’s reputation for Michelin-starred restaurants. Chef/patron Will Holland’s ambitious but appealing menu displays both classicism and creativity across the board – from an utterly delicious starter of freshly picked Devon crab served with lightly spiced cod fishcakes and pickled papaya salsa, via succulent roast leg and braised shoulder of new season’s lamb with potato gratin, soft herb crumb, peas and mint, to a delectable cassis-poached pear with yoghurt pannacotta, clafoutis and crystallised almonds. Prices are steep, but there’s also a bargain three-course lunch (£30) if you want a financially painless way in.
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