One of a trio of upmarket local inns under the same ownership, the Exeter Arms manages to combine its duties as a stopover with those of an inviting boozer and well-regarded restaurant. Step through the snug bar to the appealingly light ‘orangery’, where seagrass flooring, the odd watering can and old wooden furniture suggest a touch of ‘potting-shed chic’. Highly trained staff work the tables, and the kitchen delivers ambitious modern European cuisine from a monthly menu. You won’t find smoked haddock and milk pannacotta with spiced rice fritter and curry emulsion in your average boozer; nor a duo of local venison, comprising a tender steak and a crisp little suet pudding. A fancily presented plum and balsamic crumble might veer towards the fussy, but local ale and a well-ordered wine list keep things grounded.