Occupying a cavernous site on Western Road, the Hove Kitchen is a big space that does the little things well. From quirky cocktails in the bar to a children’s menu & play area, the place has all-round appeal backed up by some very decent food. The chef earned his stripes at the legendary River Café, & it shows in dishes ranging from partridge, pheasant & pork agnolotti to rich chocolate ’nemesis’ – although the menu also takes in gutsy British & French flavours. Red cabbage & Barkham blue cheese salad is a skilful blend of sweet & salty tones, likewise a main of local scallops with violet & Jerusalem artichokes. Breakfast is a good call, & the nine-hour roast rib of beef has gained a cult following for Sunday lunch. Floorboards & wicker chairs make for an easy-going atmosphere, especially in summer when the front opens up for alfresco dining.
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