Four acres of riverside grounds give this former tweed mill a secluded feel, although the village of Kingussie is on its doorstep. Long-serving owners David and Katie Young have handed over the reins to Derek and Celia Kitchingman, but The Cross still boasts a pristine interior with plenty of exposed beams and an open fire. Unwind in one of the homely lounges or head straight for the dining room with its patio doors opening onto a sun terrace. The menu is short, but dishes have broad appeal – witness smoked haddock with poached quail’s egg and curry oil, hand-dived mull scallop with celeriac and truffle risotto, and a signature main course of Highland venison loin with baby gem, goats’ cheese gnocchi and beetroot jus. Finish with raspberry soufflé, summer berry sorbet and tarragon crème anglaise.
Wines are split up by both varietal and style (depending on which seems more natural), the tone is helpful but relaxed and the selection of both wines and whiskies is impressive. A big list for such a small restaurant.