Those expecting diminished returns following executive chef John Campbell’s departure should be pleasantly surprised by Restaurant Coworth Park. Off the plate little has changed. The Dorchester Collection’s first foray into country-house hospitality spans 240 acres of lawns, meadows and woodland surrounding a quirkily restored Georgian manor complete with a special-occasion dining room – all orange leather, towering windows and gold-leaf sculptures. The kitchen matches the mood with some assured displays of intricate, adventurous cooking: crab ‘cannelloni’ wrapped in pea gel appears alongside octopus carpaccio and compressed cucumber, while crisp-skinned red mullet fillets are perched on seared scallops beneath saffron crisps, roasted tomato and intense bouillabaisse foam. Steep prices go with the territory, although an all-inclusive ‘Best of British’ lunch menu (three courses plus wine, coffee and chocolates) is startlingly good value. The full wine list has also been priced with luxury in mind.