The Clarendon

Exposed brickwork, bare tables, zany decoration & a wall-to-wall soundtrack might suggest a big-city pizza joint, & The Clarendon’s clubby vibe certainly chimes with its out-of-Watford location. A lot of money has been spent here, & the populist, kitsch backdrop suits the WAGs & hangers-on from the nearby Grove who mingle with locals in the bar & dining room. The open kitchen rolls out a succession of modern dishes with a healthy dollop of British produce added to the mix: hand-dived Cornish scallops might appear with garden peas & crisp pork belly, rump of Stocking’s Farm lamb is partnered by sweet potato, curly kale & caramelised shallots, & Scottish mallard is treated to a slick of sweet & sour plum purée, pomegranate & spätzle. Deserts play it straight (think sticky toffee pudding or Bakewell tart) & the upbeat brasserie wine list does it job.