The Curlew

Set in a postcard-perfect historic Sussex backwater, this pretty 17th-century coaching inn has been revamped & reinvigorated under new owners – & the affluent locals clearly approve. Now trading as a British bistro, The Curlew’s quirky, contemporary decor chimes well with a menu that presses all the in-vogue buttons – local, sustainable, seasonal, et al. The kitchen dips into the Sussex larder for cheese (deployed in a twice-baked soufflé), procures fish from the Rye Bay day boats (say, lemon sole served with shrimp butter, samphire & salted lemon), & makes proper use of Romney Marsh lamb (a perfectly judged dish of slow-cooked shoulder & lamb ‘bacon’ with artichoke & mint dripping). To finish, delicious treacle tart comes with an outstanding nutmeg milk pudding. The wine list is a stylish match for the food, & great-value lunches clock in at £16 for two courses.