Joe & Elizabeth McDermott have breathed new life into what was a run-down town boozer. The original stone-flagged floors, big open fires & beams remain, but the interior now comes with flashes of kitsch – standard lamps with frilly shades, for example. There’s also a whiff of nostalgia about the menu, but old faithfuls are given an enterprising twist. A smokehouse out back does its job & the kitchen garden is in good shape: taste the results in a dish of smoked homemade sausage with pickled peppers, mustard & delicious home-baked sourdough bread. To follow, lentils, roast beetroot & garden tomatoes with Yellison’s goats’ cheese is an earthy, wholesome plateful, but leave room for spiced bread pudding & cream. There’s well-kept Timothy Taylor Landlord at the bar, as well as an affordable choice of wines.