Guests at this lovingly restored arts & crafts manor house – now a contemporary restaurant-with-rooms – should be more than happy with the intriguing modern food on offer in the dining room. Chef Chris Wicks earned plaudits for his innovative ideas & adventurous flavour combinations when he was at Bell’s Diner in Bristol’s Montpelier district, & his cooking has lost none of its flair – witness a refreshing starter of rabbit & langoustine paired with nori & tomato jelly. Modish Asian influences also point up a main course of sea bass with lemongrass, lime, green tea, noodles & pak choy, although three riffs on pork – flavour-packed belly, loin & black pudding – speak of a keen interest in all things European too. Desserts are variations on familiar themes, perhaps chocolate coulant with toffee, coco nib & chocolate ice cream or vanilla crème brûlée with blackberry, apple & shortbread.
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