Bryan & Susan Webb make a formidable double act at their restaurant-with-rooms on the edge of a snoozy village in the lovely Dee Valley (note: no mobile phone reception). Susan’s chatty style out front helps bring in the local custom, & the two smart, softly lit dining rooms have well-spaced tables. Bryan’s dedication to sourcing fine seasonal & native ingredients marks out his culinary style, & they form the cornerstones of a confident yet sensible approach that won the restaurant a Michelin star in 2010. Scallops with vegetable relish & home-grown leaves, & loin of local spring lamb with artichokes, peas, broad beans & mint are typically handled with aplomb, while rich whimberry crème brûlée could bring proceedings to a close.
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