Nathan Outlaw has earned a reputation for some of the most engaging food in the south west, and he shows no sign of slowing down. The venue strikes an understated, elegant pose and the menus are easy to access. Take your pick from the fixed-price lunch and dinner offerings or the more expensive tasting option; either way, the choice revolves around Cornish fish, with just a token meat dish among the starters and main courses. Lemon sole with caper and potato dumplings, and sea bass with curried crab, leek and potato have earned praise. The whole show is satisfyingly underpinned by well-drilled, gracious staff for whom nothing is too much trouble.