As one of the UK’s foremost seafood chefs, Nathan Outlaw aims to impress with serious intention, innovation and technical accomplishments. He sources carefully, uses only Cornish seafood and keeps a sharp eye on the calendar. With two Michelin stars under his belt, his nine-course tasting menu makes for a powerfully impressive experience, delivering an array of thrilling bijou dishes full of modish accents and dazzling flavours: cured brill with blood orange and tarragon; squid with mint and coriander; lemon sole with crispy oyster and Jerusalem artichoke. Monkfish wrapped in bacon with a wild garlic dressing is a springtime signature dish, and the cheese course (note, no supplement) is a fantastic tribute to the region’s artisan producers. Desserts hardly rest on their laurels either – how about a passion fruit and coconut ice-cream ‘sandwich’. The restaurant itself is understated and elegant, run by well-drilled, gracious staff for whom nothing is too much trouble.
interior photography ©Rob Whitrow
There’s something of the Hakkasan in the way this British eatery has structured its list, with wines split up into intriguing (but generally helpful) categories such as ‘Sea and Ocean’ and ‘Aromatics’. Plus it’s easy to follow, beautifully presented and isn’t afraid to big up its weirder listings, like Georgian amphorae wines.