Restaurant Nathan Outlaw

Nathan Outlaw’s culinary execution and attention to detail are exemplary. He is one of our foremost seafood chefs (and only Cornish seafood at that), and his nine-course tasting menu is built around what’s in season. It enchants at every turn and the kitchen never misses a trick in its search for flavour and clarity. An opener of brill tartare with fine herbs is a medley of subtle tastes, likewise a bowl of limpid spring vegetable nage. Moving on, mains of monkfish and bacon with St Enodoc asparagus, wild garlic and pumpkin seed dressing or a dish of cod with mushrooms and hazelnuts show a thrilling mastery of diverse ingredients and techniques. Regional cheeses are superb, and desserts such as burnt rhubarb and custard cream are beautifully presented. The whole show is satisfyingly underpinned by well-drilled, gracious staff for whom nothing is too much trouble. As a venue, it’s understated and elegant – a rare restaurant that can live up to the expectations of a special occasion.