Nathan Outlaw’s cooking is all about top-drawer Cornish seafood, and his feel for subtlety, balance and flavour more than justifies his two Michelin stars. Meals take place in a small but classy dining room overseen by meticulously attentive staff, while the food revolves around a 'powerfully impressive', perfectly balanced nine-course tasting menu shot through with brilliant ideas. From a bijou starter of soused red mullet with Jerusalem artichoke and creamy curry sauce or home-cured brill with a wild garlic dressing, peeled grapes and almonds to John Dory with a vodka tempura-coated oyster, crunchy bacon and asparagus cream or turbot on the bone with intense smoked mushroom ketchup, it’s all about modish accents and dazzling flavours. The cheese course is a terrific tribute to the region’s artisan producers, while Cornish ice-cream sorbet on blood orange and rhubarb jelly with an almost 'fizzy' crumble is the pick of the desserts. In short, a top-class dining experience. 'Such a friendly team', too.
There’s something of the Hakkasan in the way this British eatery has structured its list, with wines split up into intriguing (but generally helpful) categories such as ‘Sea and Ocean’ and ‘Aromatics’. Plus it’s easy to follow, beautifully presented and isn’t afraid to big up its weirder listings, like Georgian amphorae wines.