Empires Turkish Cafe, Tea House & Bistro

This oddball Turkish eatery is a bit of a puzzler – a cash-only drop-in without a drinks licence (although you can BYO); that said, Empires could pass for a buzzy bolthole in bohemian old Istanbul rather than Old Town Edinburgh. Service strikes a laid-back note, & the food aims for wholesome sustenance rather than innovation. The menu is largely based on mezze, with most of the familiar names on show (falafel, haloumi, borek, dolma); alternatively, fill up with moussaka, kofte (beef & herb meatballs in tomato sauce) or char-grilled chicken beyti in flatbread with tomato & red pepper sauce & garlic yoghurt. Mint tea & Turkish coffee with baklava round off the experience.