Pierre Levicky was the man behind the Edinburgh-based Pierre Victoire budget restaurant chain, which collapsed in 1998; since then he has opened a string of different venues (including Chez Jules), and has now re-launched the original PV brand with this venture. The Gallic feel, handwritten menus and green livery seen all over the UK in the 1990s are back, although they now come with more contemporary bistro trappings. ‘Complets’ fixed-price lunches offer terrific value, likewise the wallet-friendly carte, which takes in snails, frog’s legs, mussels, omelettes and provincial classics ranging from grilled goats’ cheese with orange marmalade and toast to slow-cooked duck leg with fresh thyme and cannellini beans in duck fat. ‘Les bifsteaks’ still loom large, while desserts are favourites such as ‘le sticky toffee pudding’. The compact wine list includes plenty by the glass or carafe.