A former colleague of Rick Stein, & lately chef-director of Dakota Hotels, Roy Brett moved into central Edinburgh with seafood venue Ondine. Occupying the first floor of the Hotel Missoni (but entirely separate), it’s a clean-lined, contemporary space with a crustacean bar holding centre stage, & a jazzy helping of baroque fabrics & jaunty art. Lunch could start with three tempura oysters, dipping sauce & pea shoots, followed by generous hunks of cod in curry sauce with rice & chunky raita, with chocolate truffle tart for dessert. At dinner, grilled sea bass in chive butter sauce is a typical main, while shellfish options range from Irish or Scottish oysters to langoustines, brown crabs & lobsters. There are also meat & vegetarian options, plus wines by the glass from £3.90. This is accomplished & ethical cooking – Ondine is accredited by the Marine Stewardship Council for its sourcing of sustainable seafood.