Peter de Savary is an old hand at hospitality, & his latest venture is a real charmer, with some Devon cream on top. The seaside setting is a dream & the cooking also impresses, thanks to a solidly traditional Brit menu with some retro touches & plenty of local sourcing. Kick off with plump seared Brixham scallops or roll back to the 60s with a pint of prawns & piquant Marie Rose sauce. To follow, slow-cooked Devon steak & Otter Ale pie is proper trencherman grub, while roast partridge (shot nearby) is suitably gamey. Treacle tart makes a toothsome finale, & the West Country cheeseboard proffers six moreish varieties. The decor is all rustic stonework, oak beams & crackling log fires; when it’s warm, diners can also take advantage of the pretty view-filled terrace with its dedicated BBQ & pizza oven. Staff gravitate with assurance.
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