The Orangery at Rockliffe Hall

Geordie chef Kenny Atkinson’s public profile went sky high when he won the BBC’s Great British Menu in 2009, & other accolades may be in the offing as the Michelin-starred chef takes over the running of Rockcliffe Hall’s top-end restaurant – part of a lavish hotel, spa & golf development. Set in a historic orangery (hence the name), the smart dining room has views of the golf course & feels formal enough to be special without intimidating. Atkinson proudly lists his suppliers on the back of the menu, & corrals seasonal ingredients into classy dishes such as wild garlic soup or turbot with a riot of broad beans & asparagus. Diners are spoiled by unstintingly friendly service & a generous array of extras including pea pannacotta with chilli & smoked bacon to begin, & a deconstructed mango cheesecake as pre-dessert. The relatively short wine list seems destined for bigger things.

Wine List Of The Year

As you might expect, the prices at this upmarket country house hotel are on the high side. But the list remains very simple, clear, elegant and (despite the exhortation to ‘talk to one of our sommeliers’ on the front page) does its best to explain places and grape varieties in a clear, friendly, no-nonsense kind of way. The New World gets rather short shrift, but this is nonetheless an undeniably elegant wine list.