Set in a historic orangery (hence the name), the smart dining room has views of the golf course & feels formal enough to be special without intimidating. The suppliers are listed on the back of the menu, & corrals seasonal ingredients into classy dishes such as wild garlic soup or turbot with a riot of broad beans & asparagus. Diners are spoiled by unstintingly friendly service & a generous array of extras including pea pannacotta with chilli & smoked bacon to begin, & a deconstructed mango cheesecake as pre-dessert.
For a top-end country house hotel, this list manages to be large and wide-ranging, without veering into phone-book territory. The by-the-glass selection is big but accessible, and there’s an unusually large choice of stickies. Key to its place on the shortlist, though, is the way in which, along with the good selection of European classics, there are edgier offerings from Wales, Israel, England and Slovenia. It looks fantastic, too.