Local chef Michael Heathcote has transformed this former run-down village boozer into a comfortable pub with a stylish dining room. In the bar, the floors are flagged, wood-burning stoves glow & red velvet chandeliers add a touch of quirkiness. The dining room has splashes of colour in the plush upholstery, but most attention focuses on the food. A short menu takes in Gruyère soufflé with watercress & beetroot salad or a risotto of new season’s Scottish girolles with truffle shavings, ahead of a trio of Paythorne Saddleback pork (crisp belly, glazed cheek & pork pie) with homemade black pudding & mustard sauce, or a sublime dish of silky poached haddock tagliolini with spinach, broad beans & spring onions. To finish, plum clafoutis with lavender & honey ice cream is a triumph. The wine list is well considered, & there are well-kept local beers for the fans.