The A1 roars a couple of miles away, but here all is calm. Outside there’s a pleasing patio with solid furniture & sculptural plantings; inside, a subtle Scandinavian air prevails – distressed settles with ‘cotton ticking’ upholstery, fresh stripy curtains & cushions with witty embroidered homilies such as ‘be nice to your kids’. Open fires blaze, oak floors gleam, & there’s a warm welcome at the bar. Chef Paul Waugh has worked on his menu with York’s top dog Jeff Baker, & the consultation has paid off. Macaroni with ham shank, Ribblesdale cheese & mustard makes a hearty starter, ahead of, say, salted day-boat cod with local potatoes, parsley & garlic, or corned beef hash with campfire beans. Daily specials might include Whitby crab salad, while superb treacle tart & custard with citrus peel & orange blossom provides a splendid finish.