This commendable & contemporary eatery opened in spring 2008 & has been gathering plaudits ever since – even though it’s hidden away inside the New County Hotel. The interior is sharp & linear (think dark wood, leather chairs, & arty photographs on the walls), staff are an engaging bunch, & the kitchen knows its stuff. At dinner you could start with a goats’ cheese soufflé, its richness offset by beetroot purée, then perhaps some fine roast loin of venison buttressed by sweet potato fondant & liquorice jus; desserts can be as comforting as sticky toffee pudding or as complex as tiramisu with amaretti parfait & orange terrine. Perth may be a small town but this is big-city cooking. There are 17 red & white wines under £25, some premium bottles from France & Italy, & an Opus One red from the Napa Valley for seriously big spenders.