James Duckett at the Old Custom House

The denizens of Barnstaple consider James Duckett’s restaurant a home-from-home, & many of them are greeted as familiar friends. They love the smart, unstuffy ambience & the menu of French-based dishes, which comes with the occasional exotic inflection. The kitchen makes the most of British seasonal produce for a regularly changing line-up that aims to please. Butter-poached lobster is given a kick with carrot & ginger purée, while mains range from roast wild venison with spiced red cabbage, celeriac purée, glazed shallots & red wine reduction to salt cod brandade with a mild curry sauce. Lunch deals are downright bargains: two/three courses for £12/15, plus tapas-style plates at £4 a go – say grilled lamb’s kidneys with rosemary sauce or caramelised pork belly with mustard sauce. The concise wine list offers plenty of enticing drinking