The Lands of Loyal

Lands of Loyal is the third venture from the Webster family, who also own Castleton House by Glamis & Raemoir House near Banchory. Built as a grand residence in the 1830s, it became a hotel in 1945 before the current team took charge in 2008. Inside, the soaring hall is a homage to the celebrated RMS Mauretania (the chandelier & light fittings actually came from the vessel), while the interconnected dining rooms (white linen, elaborate carpets & ruched curtains) are in keeping with a polite & aspirational country house. By contrast, the menu stays within familiar boundaries: lunch might bring a simple smoked salmon starter, followed by goats’ cheese soufflé with Waldorf salad, & an ample Eton mess for dessert. The kitchen ups its game in the evening, with slightly more elaborate main courses such as Gressingham duck breast with black cherries & Madeira jus.