Quality local produce has always been the cornerstone of Nathan Outlaw’s cooking & there’s plenty on display at his latest opening in the St Enodoc Hotel, from Cornish meats & cheese to oysters & mussels delivered from the estuary within sight of the dining room & terrace. A fine-tuned kitchen means that these prime ingredients are handled with skill, whether it’s Cornish duck leg with pine nut salad to start, or main courses of basil-crusted pollock with clams & samphire, & pork T-bone with bubble & squeak. Desserts might feature a zingy lemon posset with raspberries & redcurrants. The menu is short, pricing is keen & the straightforward style certainly impresses, while service is friendly & proficient. The modern wine list isn’t excessively priced either. A light menu is offered from 3-6pm.