An example of a big-name chef project that really works, Michael Caines at ABode combines diffusion versions of the great man’s dishes with the input of head chef Mark Rossi. Late of the Canterbury hotel & with a background which includes work for Nico Ladenis, the Rouxs & Philip Howard as well as Gidleigh Park, Rossi has the skill set to deliver the refined flavours & textures & seasonal flourishes that characterise Caines’ style. The below-stairs dining room divides opinion, with as many fans of the sleek, low-key chocolate-coloured scheme as there are complaints about the creaky floor & lack of light. Everyone’s agreed that the grazing menu – featuring tasting sizes of dishes such as veal sweetbreads with an almond crust, poached quail’s egg & sauce gribiche or a marinated tuna tartare – is a great way to explore, & at lunchtimes three dishes are impressively priced at £13.50. Wine-matching from a strong list is taken seriously, & the wine team has a slight edge over the rest of service.