A Californian bistro with a unique selection of wines from the Golden State, Calistoga may be on an untidy lane, seldom frequented by locals or tourists, but it is very close to Princes Street. Inside, the decor is simple & unfussy while the West Coast cooking means that eclecticism rules the day. Dinner could start with tuna, coriander & lime fishcake with mango & chilli salsa, then a dish of Pacific oysters, Dublin Bay prawns, crunchy squid & prawn tempura as a main. Alternatively, grills bring steak, ostrich, pork chop or marlin with a choice of sauces (smoky BBQ, chunky tomato, sweet chilli, or lemon with sour cream & peppercorn), plus various sides (fries, lemon rice). Orange couscous cake with rhubarb sorbet is a satisfying dessert. To make the most of the wine list – the most comprehensive line-up of Californian names in Scotland – Calistoga also hosts tutored tasting dinners by arrangement.