Away from Rusholme’s frantic curry mile, EastzEast creates its own buzz; even with a booking, you may have to queue at weekends. The hordes come for well-judged Punjabi food served in a shiny restaurant that’s one step up from the traditional curry house – if you want several steps up, try the Riverside branch with its gaudy palm trees & huge capacity. Poppadoms arrive with a satisfyingly varied & fresh pickle tray; after that, pick from the ‘old-school’ or ‘traditional’ sections of the menu: slow-cooked main courses such as an on-the-bone lamb bhuna work particularly well. Naan bread suspended from a bizarre mug tree-style rack is a distinctive feature, as is the costumed man in elegant long slippers who greets customers as they arrive.