The Shandon Belles

The Two Fat Ladies empire has come on hugely since the original seafood bistro opened on Dumbarton Road. Following their takeover of Glasgow’s legendary Buttery, the team recently converted its spare basement into The Shandon Belles. The Victorian tenement building is not in the loveliest neighbourhood (apartment blocks & motorway underpasses), but aesthetic outrage fades once you get downstairs. The low ceiling, pale-grey colour scheme & almost church-like ambience create quite a haven. From the à la carte, you could start with Ullapool smoked salmon, salsa verde & soda bread, ahead of roast belly pork with apricot & prune stuffing & roast onion jus. To finish, perhaps a tangy mixed fruit & ginger fool. Prices are very fair – hardly anyone spends more than £20 a head on three courses, & the wine list is all sub-£20. Delightfully discreet, informal & good value.