Set in a lushly refurbished Victorian townhouse, their big-city venture picked up a Michelin star in its first year – not surprising given that Paul Kitching’s cooking borders on performance art. The ‘21212’ name should really be ‘31313’ as there are now three starter choices, then soup, three mains, then cheese and finally three desserts. Both lunch and dinner can involve the whole shebang, although you can have fewer courses, priced accordingly. Kitching conjures up a daily riot of fantastical constructions ranging from ‘chicken peanut butter’ (refined Mexican chilli, smoked ham and chips, peanuts, prunes, leeks, tomato and olive oil) to a jazzed-up ‘meat pie’ or baked pink trout with jumbo white asparagus, mushrooms and scallops, black garlic, shallots, pimento cream and smoked quinoa. It’s all about creativity, spectacle and entertainment, with “stunningly amazing” results. Intriguing, eclectic wines top off “an absolute treat”.