La Vallée Blanche offers very good French-inspired food in a first-floor setting that resembles an Alpine chalet – think wooden slats on the walls, hessian flooring and red fabrics. The quality of the cooking, however, belies the determinedly unvarnished interiors. You could start with smoked mackerel rillettes, oyster dressing, caviar and oatcakes or confit chicken and foie gras terrine, before moving on to rump of lamb with ratatouille, brandy and morel jus, a bowl of shellfish bouillabaisse with a saffron seed loaf or duck breast with a confit cake, garlicky creamed spinach, sultana and Madeira jus. For afters, perhaps go for dark chocolate pavé with blood-orange ice cream. Fixed-price lunches and pre-theatre menus are brilliant value, steak deals brighten up Tuesday and Wednesday nights, and the all-French wine list is stuffed with tempting regional possibilities.